Ian Jack
What a lovely read!
Now that we have settled that, let me elaborate. Mofussil Junction is a collection of the author’s articles about India, written for various publications, over a time frame of more than 30 years. There are essays, profiles, and some wonderfully wistful travel writings. The book is divided into five parts – places, people, (the Nehru-Gandhi) dynasty, ‘Life and Death’, and ‘Fellow Travellers’.
He had me hooked from the first chapter, when I learned that Bihar was the birthplace of George Orwell! There are vivid portraits of Bombay and Calcutta in the late 80s, but it is the tales of Serampur and McCluskiegunge (not to forget this chapter’s superb title) that truly amaze!
‘People’ covers a variety of personalities – from Osho to Benazir, and several authors whose perspectives and quirks (Nirad Chaudhuri!) make for a delightful read. ‘Dynasty’ gives quite a peek into India’s ‘ruling’ dynasty, and insights into the thoughts and actions that have defined the course of a nation. In fact, a piece written in 1991 proves to be amazingly prescient as it talks about India’s secular vs Hindu nation future. ‘Life and Death’ is easily the most cheerless of the sections, but to read perspectives about the Bhagalpur blindings, the Bhopal tragedy, and the 1984 riots that followed Indira Gandhi’s death soon after the actual events, is quite an experience.
Barring the poignant story of McCluskiegunge,’Fellow Travellers’ would be my favourite. It includes, in addition to steamer trips, a subject very close to my heart – the Indian Railways. As an Indian born in the late 70s, train journeys were an integral part of my childhood. I’ve said this before, my favourite books are the ones that help me travel in time, and this is one such. There is a sense of camaraderie and empathy that is visible through the writing, and this along with the observations that practically reenact a moment thanks to an eye for detail, subtle wit, and sometimes very personal experiences, makes it one of the best books I’ve read in quite a while. Do read it – it’ll take you to an India that you’ve probably never seen before.
